Lot's of tour books out there. Researched a while and it was down to Lonely Planet and Footprint guides to South America. Went with Footprint. Although it has adds, it's less user-friendly (yet not unforgivably so) so the routes it suggests are less traversed. They call it the Bible of tour guides... it's big enough and awfully open-ended. Perfect! Alternatively, we walk the gringo trail lonely planet offers which doesn't appeal at all.
New development: Kiley and I are planning to dye our hair dark brown/black. Apparently, we'll need to bring our own dye packs because they don't sell anything but blonde bleaches on that side of the hemisphere. Can't do much about the ghostly white skin or bluesy iris twins i sport, but i feel it'll still make a difference. cosmetic defense~ gringas incognito!
One more thing. Thought we could go from Colombia to Brazil. Not looking good- the footprint book (tour book from here on out) says there are absolutely no permanent (or even seasonal dirt) roads between Bogota and the western Amazon of Brazil. Besides, Colombian borders are known to be... well... wilder than I may ever want to know.